Inaugural event Narragansett, RI September 24, 2022
On March 25, 1996, on an average day at Zuma Beach, 17 year-old Jesse Billauer dropped into a wave at the punchy California beach break. He pulled inside a barrel and got thrown headfirst into a shallow sandbar. The impact broke his sixth cervical vertebrae, and he instantly became a quadriplegic. At the time he was one of the top junior surfers in the world, on the fast-track to going pro.
Jesse takes it from here: “The good news … my story didn’t end that day. With the help of the surf community, I got back into the sport I love and went on to help thousands brave the waves – and in the process, rediscover their infinite potential. I’ll leave you with this: your power is in your perspective, not your circumstance.”
After rehab, reflection, and getting back in the water with the help of friends, Jesse went on to found Life Rolls On, a non-profit foundation dedicated to improving the quality of life for people living with various disabilities. He founded it on the belief that adaptive surfing and skating could inspire infinite possibilities beyond any disability. Life Rolls On began as a splash into the unknown on September 11, 2001; achieved 501c3 nonprofit status in 2002; and now touches the lives of hundreds of thousands.
With adaptive equipment and numerous dedicated volunteers, They Will Surf Again empowers people living with paralysis to ride a wave – blowing away physical barriers. Adaptive surfing builds confidence, and even more importantly, brings a sense of reward and fulfillment that their condition doesn’t make them less whole, less like everyone else.
This quality-of-life program has grown to 10 events on all 3 coasts of the US and for 20 years, participation has been FREE. The latest addition to this busy schedule of adaptive surfing events had its debut on September 24, at Town Beach in Narragansett, RI and was organized with LRO by Marc Guttman, a Connecticut hospital emergency physician and his 16-year-old daughter, Tara, a high school junior. “As an emergency physician, I often see patients and their families dealing with their disabilities,” he said. “Having enjoyed surfing myself for many years, and enjoying the good feelings it offers, I thought that adaptive surfing must be a great way for individuals with disabilities to be active, share in the joy, and maybe help be a springboard to other endeavors that could enrich their lives,” explained Guttman, 48, who has been a surfer for many years. Marc, his daughter, and longtime friend, surfer and LRO volunteer, Doug Denny organized a team that reached out to local medical groups, hospitals, insurance companies, surf shops, and others, in search of sponsorship and volunteers. After scouting out an appropriate venue, LRO sought and gained approval for beach access from local authorities. They then contacted rehabilitation centers, neurosurgical, neurology, and rehabilitation departments of hospitals in CT, RI, and MA to let their patients know about this unique opportunity to get in the ocean and ride the waves.
The September event took place in stellar conditions with leftovers from Hurricane Fiona delivering a 3-foot, long-period swell with moderate off-shore winds, and sunny skies. Nearly a hundred family members, caregivers, and volunteers assembled on that bright September morning in order to help about a dozen people of all ages ride the beautiful waves on offer, many for the first time in their lives. Marc, Tara, and Doug were assisted by a large local crew of in-water and land-based volunteers.
Chief Kahuna was Chris Antao, founder of Gnome Surf, who provides surf-therapy to children with autism, Downs-syndrome, and LGTBQ youth in nearby Little Compton. Chris and his staff provided adaptive surfboards and served as in-water team leaders. The University of Rhode Island and Bryant University swim teams also volunteered. Four teams of a dozen members each were stationed in deep, moderate, and shallow water, as well as on the beach to ensure a fun and safe experience for these first-time surfers.
Dr Guttman recounts the in-water action: “Narragansett Town Beach is a great venue because it is wheelchair accessible, has a short beach to the water, and has a relatively shallow shore break which is ideal for assisting adaptive surfers. Early in the morning we set up sand-free, wheel-chair compatible mats, tents and banners for a staging area. After a group gathering, introductions, and a briefing we started surfing around 9:30am allowing for the tide to go down and for air to warm up a bit. Chris Antao and his Gnome Surf team were a huge help. The vibe in the water was from participants and volunteers was amazing, with lots of positive energy and enthusiasm. We surfed until about 12pm and then picked raffle winners and had a great lunch on the beach. We hope to build on our success to make the event even more impactful next year.”
Keeping LRO events free to all participants and running them safely requires time, talent, and treasure. I’m talking to you, dear reader. As a surfdoc this fits squarely in your wheelhouse. Please contribute at least one of the three tees of this truly remarkable organization to help provide the experience of surfing we have all come to cherish to those who would not otherwise have the opportunity.
