
A 70-year-old looks at 58 years of surfing and how surfing has changed him, physically, medically and mentally. My first stand up surfing wave was on a 9ft Surfari pop-out board at Huntington Beach in summer 1960. Prior to that, I had body surfed, rubber mat surfed (a surfo) and surfed home-made plywood paipo (belly) […]
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